Where Tradition Meets Inspiration: Day 2 at Apapaxoa

August 27, 2025

After an emotional inauguration that opened the way to celebrate the cultural and culinary richness of Apapaxoa, the second day unfolded like a mosaic of emotions, reflections, and learnings.

From social inclusion at breakfast to discussions about identity, science, sustainability, and equity, the day proved that gastronomy is much more than technique—it is a living language that connects people and their stories.

During this journey, I also had the chance to meet and interview several participating chefs. Listening closely revealed nuances that enriched every story of flavor even more.

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Each presentation was marked by the authenticity of its speakers—cooks, researchers, and gastronomy leaders who shared their vision and path with honesty.

Breakfast That Inspires

The morning began in a warm and traditional atmosphere. The “Breakfast That Inspires” offered tamales, atoles, fruit, and artisanal bread, accompanied by a live tamale-making workshop.

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The moment was led by IncluTamali, a job training program for people with intellectual disabilities and Down syndrome in Cancún. This project has benefited more than 25 people and was recognized in 2019 with the Entrepreneurial Talent Award. Today, they organize “tamaleadas with purpose”, bringing their products to events and proving that gastronomy is also a means of inclusion and dignity in work.

Manila Galleon

The first story of flavor of the day was titled “Manila Galleon”, presented by chefs Chele G. and Andoni Luis Aduriz.

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Chele, born in the Philippines and living in Mexico for 15 years, leads Gallery by Chele in Metro Manila, a space that celebrates cultural fusion through cuisine. His talk revolved around the culinary mestizaje born from transpacific trade:

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“The journey of ingredients that changed gastronomy worldwide,” as he defined it. He reminded the audience that many products we consider everyday staples today arrived centuries ago aboard the Manila Galleon ships.

He explained: “Traditional cuisine is in constant motion; ingredients and cooking will continue, but change is constant,” emphasizing that “it’s not only ingredients that travel, but also cultures with them.” For him, recovering recipes from up to 500 years ago is a way of honoring the collective memory that cooks within each dish.

Andoni, one of Spain’s most influential chefs with his restaurants Mugaritz (Errenteria) and Xal (La Casa de la Playa), added a philosophical lens on food and culture. He stressed that in Mexico he found a deeply rooted identity and an enviable market of ingredients. On what lies behind what we eat, he left one of the most memorable phrases of the day:

“90% of people just want to eat, but there’s that 10% who want something more. They are nourished not only by ingredients, but by the history behind them. Every time we put something in our mouths, we’re eating the world, time, and the efforts of so many people.”

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Their dialogue also revealed differences: for Andoni, gastronomy is a craft of the highest level because it seeks pleasure, not discomfort like art sometimes does. Chele countered: “**Gastronomy is art in many ways… food can be understood as art, as expression, as messages and emotions. Sharing a meal is art—it creates moments, and living those moments is art.”

The Science of Taste

The next presentation came from Santiago Lastra, a Mexican chef who found in London the space to reinterpret his country’s cuisine. There, he founded KOL, awarded one Michelin star and recognized on the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

His proposal has been celebrated for conveying the Mexican essence in a context where many ingredients are unavailable, proving that creativity and science can reconstruct flavor memories beyond borders.

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With clarity that connected science and culture, he explained: “We don’t make traditional food,” adding, “The question is: how do we go to another country and introduce culture?”

For him, lacking original ingredients is no excuse. In his kitchen, he builds layers of flavor based on the chemical composition of food to reconstruct profiles that evoke chile, corn, or epazote, even if sourced from British products.

Most of his diners are Londoners, people who approach Mexico through flavors. His work shows that applied science in gastronomy can be a tool to build cultural and emotional bridges.

Conversations with Enrique Olvera

One of the most anticipated moments was a conversation with Enrique Olvera, joined on stage by Andoni Luis Aduriz. Olvera, recognized as one of the most important divs in contemporary Mexican gastronomy, is the creator of Pujol, considered for years the best restaurant in Mexico, now with a Michelin star and ranked on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Through this, Olvera has elevated tradition into a global dialogue.

In an intimate talk format, Olvera shared reflections filled with humor, honesty, and wisdom. “The best things in my life aren’t cooked, but saying that at a congress isn’t the most consistent thing—though it’s the purest,” he confessed with a smile.

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He recalled that a chef’s career is short, like that of athletes, and defining a style before retiring is necessary. On creativity, he said: “You don’t come up with a dish through effort, but through inspiration and trial and error.”

Speaking of tradition, he underlined: “Mole doesn’t taste like its ingredients; it tastes like mole,” and maturity in cooking is expressed in restraint: “It’s very important in the kitchen to know when to hold back—that’s a gesture of maturity.”

On the tribute dinner in his honor, he reflected: “I realized all the effort it represents for so many people. Life has been generous with me, and it’s important to give back.” He defined his philosophy: “Connection with the product is fundamental. For us, so are warmth in treatment, joy, the pursuit of excellence, and self-criticism.”

He concluded evoking the memory of shared moments: “Many of the happiest moments of my life were around a table—I remember what I ate and the moment. That’s what I want people to take with them, because everything was made with love.”

Workshops and Gastronomic Hallway

Beyond the presentations, attendees explored the gastronomic hallway, where they enjoyed tacos, sopes, and other Mexican street foods. The experience was enriched by workshops such as bioceramics, still-life painting, chocolate, corn-based crafts, nixtamalization, and fruit and vegetable arrangements, where cooking was experienced as craft, creativity, and encounter.

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Gazing at the Sea with Hunger

The afternoon continued with Paco Méndez and Ángel León, two chefs who have made the sea their greatest inspiration.

Paco, deeply rooted in Mexican cuisine, leads COME in Barcelona, awarded a Michelin star just a year after opening, as well as Encanta and Xinema at Hotel Xcaret México. Recognized as one of the Mexican chefs with the greatest international projection, he is praised for reinterpreting Mexican cuisine from a contemporary lens without losing touch with its roots.

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Ángel León, known as the chef of the sea, awarded in Spain for his sustainable vision, directs Aponiente in Cádiz, distinguished with three Michelin stars and recognized as one of the most important marine cuisine temples in the world. He declared with conviction: “I cook the sea that not everyone sees,” referring to using undervalued ingredients and creatively transforming what is usually discarded.

He explained how his team transforms skins, bones, and eyes into innovative dishes and turns invasive species into gourmet foods. With humility, he said: “I haven’t discovered anything; nature can’t be patented—I just use what it gives me.”

Women of Fire

The day closed with the “Women of Fire” panel, a conversation moderated by Iliana Rodríguez, Director of Sustainability and Institutional Relations at Grupo Xcaret, alongside Karime López (the first Mexican chef to earn a Michelin star in Europe, at Gucci Osteria Florence), Sandra Fernández (one of Mexico’s most influential sommeliers, Sommelier of Grupo Xcaret), and Stephanie Maldonado, General Director of La Casa de la Playa.

Each woman, from different areas of gastronomy and hospitality, shared their experiences as women in the industry—addressing traditional expectations, the challenges of balancing personal and professional life, and persisting gender gaps in pay.

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Memorable quotes included Karime López: “Women and men are different, but we can do the same things,” and Sandra Fernández: “Your work is not defined by your partner or your family.”

The panel highlighted the importance of promoting equity in gastronomy and the value of these voices to inspire positive change in the industry.

Day 2 of Apapaxoa made it clear that cuisine is a crossroads: social inclusion with IncluTamali, history and mestizaje with the Manila Galleon, scientific innovation with Santiago Lastra, philosophy and emotion with Enrique Olvera, marine sustainability with Paco Méndez and Ángel León, and the transformative strength of the Women of Fire: Iliana Rodríguez, Karime López, Sandra Fernández, and Stephanie Maldonado.

Each story of flavor reminded us that behind every dish are people, cultures, and decisions that shape the way we see the world. Expectations for the coming days are high: more stories, more flavors, and more inspiration at this festival where tradition and innovation meet on every plate.

Mercadóloga de día, creativa siempre. Me inspiran los viajes, las fotos y los detalles que pasan des...

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